As regency gowns became lighter of fabric and more slender in silhouette, they could no longer accommodate the pockets that had once been sewn inside dresses. In the previous century, a woman's skirts had been bulky enough to tuck detachable pockets in its folds, but this sartorial detail was no longer possible. By 1799, the Times had declared "the total abjuration of the female pocket." The reticule, which was carried on a long strap that hung from the wrist or the waist (as in the image), became a popular accessory, as did outsized muffs with inside pockets and netted purses that held coins.
Reticules Held a Lady's Necessities
In Jane Austen's Emma, Mrs. Elton carried a letter in her purple and gold reticule. Whether plain or fancy, the handbags carried only a few necessities, such as a scent bottle or vinaigrette, calling card case, hankerchief, comb, breath mints, a pencil in a case and tablet for writing, a small coin purse, or other toiletry articles. The small bags quickly gained popularity and soon became indispensable. In 1799, reticules were featured in a November fashion plate in the Gallery of Fashion, and on a Grand Tour in Paris in 1801, Katherine Wilmot observed that reticules reminded her of "little workbags."
Shapes and Sizes of Reticules
Generally small in size, reticules were made in a variety of shapes, colors, and fabrics. Reticules could be purchased , but many ladies chose to make their own bags, matching the fabric to their gowns or spencers, footwear or parasols. The shapes were round, rectangular, lozenge-shaped, square, and even pineapple-shaped. One beautiful example of a reticule from the Kyoto Costume Institute shows a yellow and green silk knit pineapple-shaped reticule with long tasseled cord and decorative beading that had been made in the Island of Martinique in 1800.
Materials for Reticules
Reticules were primarily made of silk prior to 1810, and of velvet afterward, but any scrap of cloth left over from a sewing project would do. Soft, malleable kid was also a popular fabric. The bags were decorated with embroidery, ribbons, netting, tassles, beads fringe, and lace. Tassels often hung from the lowest point of the bag. Many early reticules, even the pineapple shaped model, were closed by only a drawstring. Metalwork frames with clasps also became popular and provided a more secure closure. The frames could be decorated with molded designs of neoclassical motifs. Instructions on how to make a reticule are provided at this link to the Jane Austen's Centre's Online Magazine.
Sources
Sanborn, Vic. The Reticule: A Fashionable Accessory in the Regency Period. Jane Austen's World. Web. 28 March. 2010.
Byrd, Penelope: A Frivolous Distinction: Fashion and Needlework in the Works of Jane Austen (Bath City Council, 1979) ISBN 0 901303 09 7
Downing, Sarah Jane: Fashion in the Time of Jane Austen (Great Britain, 2010, Shire Publications) ISBN 978-0-74780-767-4
Vic Sanborn - I oversee two blogs: Jane Austen's World and Jane Austen Today, and write about Jane Austen and the Regency World and its manners and ...
